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The Judgement of Antwerp: La Peira vs. The First Growths 2005-2015 – Young Charly Dinner
To the beautiful city of Antwerp and the wonderful portside restaurant, Het Pomphuis, for a La Pèira dinner with Young Charly. Young Charly exclusively represents the wines of Gaja, Ornellaia, Chapoutier, Champagne Gosset, Domaine Ott (to name but a few from its exceptional portfolio) and hosted and organised a fantastic exploration of the La Pèira vintages over the last decade.
The Wines
Tasting a decade of La Pèira at the wonderful Het Pomphuis, Antwerp / Young Charly Dinner
Port House: Antwerp. Courtesy of Zaha Hadid Architects
After an aperitif (Champagne Gosset) while admiring architect Zaha Hadid’s boat atop the old Port House, the dinner began with the whites: 2015 Deusyls de La Pèira and the 2015 La Pèira blanc. The 2015 Deusyls impressed with its youthful exuberance, while the 2015 La Pèira blanc (a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier) was more reserved with the feeling it would make old bones. Two contrasting wines, with both finding favour among the group. There followed the estate’s third wine, Obriers de la Pèira and two vintages (the 2014 & the 2007) of Las Flors de la Pèira. Again the two vintages of Las Flors offered a contrast. The 2007 – in part due to the year – was denser, darker and more concentrated than the 2014 vintage. And the 2014 vintage offered a liveliness, a feeling of more red fruits, and layers of appeal. Both were enjoyed as an expression of their respective vintages with different tasters expressing a fondness for each vintage. And then four contrasting vintages of the La Pèira cuvée: 2006, 2009, 2012, 2014. In short: the 2006 vintage continental and reminiscent of the Medoc perhaps, the 2009 vintage, hugely opulent, rich and Mediterranean, the 2012 vintage, medium-bodied, with a lovely purity and focus and perfect to drink from now on, and the 2014 vintage, full-bodied but balanced with a beautiful transitioning from the attack, to mid palate, to finish. It was a joy to taste the wines, which brought back memories.
The Judgement of Antwerp
La Pèira and the First Growths Over a Decade
Very cleverly, as part of Young Charly’s program notes for the event, La Pèira’s performance over the last decade was charted – alongside that of the First Growths/Premier Grand Crus of Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton-Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion. William Mortelmans, Directeur général of the (now) ironically-named Young Charly (one of the biggest wine merchants and importers in Belgium & owners of Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Château Fougueyrat) noticed that La Pèira had outperformed almost all of Bordeaux’s 5 First Growths over the last decade and structured the retrospective dinner and a wonderful evening exploring La Pèira’s wines of that period (the evening solely focused on the La Pèira wines) around that theme: The Judgement of Antwerp.
La Pèira Second
From the group, La Pèira came second to Haut-Brion over the decade when the Wine Advocate’s notes were averaged out. • Château Haut-Brion 96.82 • La Pèira 95.82 • Château Latour 95.73 • Château Margaux 95.36 • Château Mouton-Rothschild 95.09 • Château Lafite Rothschild 95.00 Over the years the wines have been noted by David Schildknecht, Jeb Dunnuck (more recently), Robert Parker, and Neal Martin.
Audrey BONNET–KOENIG
Audrey Bonnet, the Directrice technique, and winemaker at La Pèira explained the work behind the wines, the soils, the appellation, the cepages, the vineyard work, the harvesting and elevage, and it was a real pleasure to meet with supporters of the estate, and to present the wines with Young Charly who have been great supporters of the estate’s work over the years. One of a small select group of supporters in different countries – all who have made the work at La Pèira possible.
A very special La Pèira dinner with Young Charly, Het Pomphuis, Antwerp
For more about the wines tasted:
Deusyls de La Pèira 2015
[Tasting notes all vintages of La Pèira’s second white Deusyls – link]
La Pèira Blanc 201
[Tasting notes all vintages of the La Pèira Blanc – link]
Obriers de la Pèira 2014
Las Flors de la Pèira 2007
Las Flors de la Pèira 2014
[Tasting notes all vintages of the Las Flors de la Pèira the estate’s second wine – link]
La Pèira 2006
La Pèira 2009
La Pèira 2012
La Pèira 2014
[Tasting notes all vintages of the La Pèira – link]
La Peira 2017 Vintage
“THE 2017 LA PÈIRA IS BRILLIANT. THIS ESTATE CONTINUES TO FASHION SOME OF
THE MOST IMPRESSIVE WINES IN THE LANGUEDOC.” JEB DUNNUCK
THE 2017 VINTAGE NOTES
“There has been more ballyhoo about this domaine than any other since Daumas Gassac”, writes Paul Strang of La Pèira in his recent book Languedoc Roussillon The Wines and the Wine Makers. Indeed, in the new 11th Edition of Wines behind The Label, La Pèira remains the only producer for its region to be awarded the rare super 5-star rating designation ✪✪✪✪✪. This super 5-star rating is restricted to the true classics, out-and-out world class. Not only La Pèira is the sole estate in the Languedoc to receive this rating, it is one of a mere three domaines in the entire south of France. For some context, stalwarts such as Grange des Pères and Mas de Daumas Gassac received five-stars (outstanding) and four-stars (high quality) respectivly, while standout domaines outside the Terrasses du Larzac include Chateau de la Negly, five-stars (★★★★★ outstanding) and Puech-Haut four-stars (★★★★☆ high quality). 
2017 THE VINTAGE
The instinct at La Pèira since the beginning has been to drive a middle line between the excessively traditional and the ultramodern, between finesses and elegance on the one hand, and power and richness on the other. To search for a typicité that is not obscured by an approach that is overtly backward, nor denied by perhaps the even greater limitation of being overly modern. As Jancis Robinson say of La Pèira: “There is clearly real sensibility for the local terrain and varietal traditions”. Andrew Jefford states that La Pèira bottles “wines of striking depth and originality yet great truth to place, too”. Joe Czerwinski writes in his review of the La Pèira 2017 vintage: “As all of the grapes are handpicked, the team does an initial triage in the vineyards, followed by another sorting at the winery. That care shows in the finished wines, which manage to combine ample weight and concentration with a rare degree of elegance and length.”
As if to underline the quality point, since our last vintage report, our outstanding importer in Belgium (Young Charly) – importer of the wines of Gaja, Ornellaia, Chapoutier and owners of Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Château Fougueyrat – discovered in the process of organising a vertical tasting that La Pèira had outperformed almost all of Bordeaux’s five First Growths over the last decade. Looking at the reviews of the Wine Advocate over a ten-year period, La Pèira averaged just hehind Château Haut-Brion, yet ahead of each of the other four Premier Grand Cru Classé rated First Growths.
This is a testament to the work of all the
La Pèira team and in particular winemakers
Jérémie Depierre (vintages 2004-2014) and
Audrey Bonnet-Koenig (2015 onwards). A great
testament, too, to the outstanding vineyard terroirs of La Pèira’s lieux-dits: the Bois de Pauliau and Bellefeuille (Belle Fiolle). The reviews of the 2016 vintage (‘…a candidate for perfection’ – Jeb Dunnuck) and of the 2017 vintage (‘…the 2017 La Pèira is brilliant’ ) as detailed in this report continue to be excellent.
All this serves to emphasise one central point: that in a current wine universe where true excellence is priced stratospherically and often out of reach, La Pèira, we hope, delivers the world-class while remaining firmly within grasp.
I hope you find wines here that might find a place in your collection. And thank you for your support which has made this exploration possible.
Rob Dougan, Audrey Bonnet-Koenig, et l’équipe de La Pèira
2017 HIGH QUALITY – LITTLE QUANTITY
As across France in general, 2017 was characterised by a harvest of reduced quantity and high quality. As Jancis Robinson reports, in the Midi, the “condition of the fruit at harvest was generally very good, so the most quality-conscious estates have the potential to produce excellent wines”. The Wine Scholar Guild vintage chart for the region (compiled by Andrew Jefford) gives the vintage a four out of five glass rating (‘Excellent’). In the Wine Advocate the vintage is designated as ‘Outstanding’ and with maturity characterised by the symbol ‘T’ (indicating still tannic, youthful, or slow to mature).
It was somewhat of a surprise that the spring frosts that severely affected the vineyards of Champagne, Bordeaux Burgundy, the Loire valley, Alsace, Jura…touched the Hérault and our wider region in 2017. This is not an area known for April frost. Fortunately the La Pèira vineyards were spared the effects. But a cooler April here, as in Bordeaux and Burgundy, affected budburst and the flowering. And a dry summer and low rainfall (again as with the 2017 vintage in Bordeaux and Burgundy) saw small berries resulting in reduced yields.
Where the Hérault faired quite differently to other regions was the fair weather over the harvest period. This produced fine-quality wines but in small quantities. How small?
Decanter magazine reported wine production to be at “historic lows” for 2017. France’s agricultural statistics bureau estimates that it will fall short of the post-World War II record low set by the 1991 cropHere as in much of of France the year was characterised by an early picking season with grapes in good health and good maturity being harvested.
THE 2017 VINTAGE EN PRÉCIS
- Sufficient rain in the winter 2016 replenished soil water reserves
• Temperatures during winter not too cold so vines began their growing period early
• End of April temperatures fell and growth slowed restarting in May
• Frost touched some producers (unusually for Southern France).
• High temperatures dominated throughout June July August with the very little rain
• The 2017 harvest at La Pèira was a little earlier than usual but we had very good maturity.
• Yields were lower than 2016 due the somewhat dryer year and the flowering (coulure).
And the result?
- Aromatic suggestions of dark fruits, floral qualities,
spice (pepper), pencil lead
• Full-bodied reds that match richness, complexity and length with a high degree of purity of fruit, balance and elegance.
• Soft silky fine tannins
• A third very successful vintage under Audrey Bonnet-Koenig’s supervision (2015, 2016, 2017)LA PÈIRA 2017 REVIEWS
LA PÈIRA 2017 The 2017 La Pèira is brilliant. This estate continues to fashion some of the most impressive wines in the Languedoc. Blockbuster notes of smoked black fruits, ground pepper, and graphite all give way to full-bodied red that has building tannins, stunning purity of fruit, and a fresh, balanced, elegant style that’s going to age gracefully. 95-97+/100 Jeb Dunnuck
LA PÈIRA 2017 I was shown a prospective blend for the 2017 Terrasses du Larzac La Pèira, which comprises 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre. Still to fully absorb its oak, vanilla and cedar notes loom large against a backdrop of cola, plum and blueberries. Full-bodied and concentrated, it finishes long and dusty, with a fair bit of tannic clout.” 92-95/100 Wine Advocate
2017 MATISSAT
MATISSAT 2017 A wine to be sought out by the Mourvèdre lovers out there, the 2017 Matissat (100% Mourvèdre brought up in demi-muids) offers a terrific perfume of black raspberries, spiced meat, pepper, and earth that develops beautifully with time in the glass. As with all these 2017s, it’s slightly more elegant and streamlined than usual, yet it gains richness and depth with time in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, beautifully balanced, with silky tannins, it’s going to benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 15-20 years. 94-96+/100 Jeb Dunnuck
MATISSAT 2017 The most impressive wine I tasted during my visit to this exemplary estate was the 2017 Terrasses du Larzac Matissat, which was still in a single demi-muid. A blend of 70% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah and 10% Grenache, it displays knockout aromas of red raspberries and seductive vanilla. Full-bodied, lush and creamy, this looks to be even better than the impressive 2016. It’s a true Wow! wine, with tremendous richness, complexity and length. 95-97/100 Wine Advocate
LAS FLORS DE LA PÈIRA 2017
LAS FLORS DE LA PÈIRA 2017 More Grenache-based, the 2017 Las Flors de la Pèira offers a fresher, medium to full-bodied, more elegant style than usual. Perfumed notes of black raspberries, flowers, ground pepper, and spice all define the bouquet, and it too is beautifully balanced, has good acidity, and a balanced, lengthy, elegant profile that’s going to drink nicely right out of the gate. 93-95/100 Jeb Dunnuck
LAS FLORS DE LA PÈIRA 2017 The 2017 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Pèira is likely to be a blend of 30% each Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus 5% each Carignan and Cinsault. Still in barrel, it’s full-bodied but showcases beautifully delineated notes of spring flowers, mixed red and black fruit and a dusting of baking spices on the long, silky finish. 92-95/100 Wine Advocate
OBRIERS DE LA PÈIRA 2018
OBRIERS DE LA PÈIRA 2017 Tasted from tank, the 2018 Terrasses du Larzac Les Obriers de la Peira was showing lots of floral notes and red fruit. This medium to full-bodied blend of roughly 28% Mourvèdre, 27% Carignan, 25% Cinsault, 20% Syrah and “a drop” of Grenache is already silky, fine and fun to drink. 90-92 Joe Czerwinski Wine Advocate
LA PÈIRA WHITES
LA PÈIRA BLANC 2018 The tiny production of the 2018 La Pèira Blanc consists of three barrels: two of Roussanne and one of Viognier. Blended in those proportions, it’s not overly floral but instead delivers ripe apricot and pineapple notes. It’s full-bodied and creamy in texture, a rich white that retains a bit of citrus zest on the finish to provide lift and freshness. 91 – 93/100 Wine Advocate
DEUSYLS DE LA PÈIRA 2018 Tasted as a prospective blend drawn from barrel, the 2018 Deusyls de la Peira is a rich, creamy-textured blend of 40% Roussanne, 25% each Clairette and Grenache Blanc and 10% Marsanne. Fermentation starts in tank but finishes in barrel, with partial malolactic. Full-bodied and lush, I’d opt to drink it young for its plush pear and tangerine flavors, but it might evolve well beyond my conservative drinking window. 90 – 92/100 Wine Advocate
Download La Pèira Millesime 2017 PDF
La Peira 2016: “Up with the finest vintages of this cuvée and a candidate for perfection” 97-99/100 Jeb Dunnuck
“Up with the finest vintages of this cuvée and a candidate for perfection” 97-99/100 Jeb Dunnuck
Up with the finest vintages of this cuvée and a candidate for perfection, the 2016 Terrasses du Larzac La Peira checks in as a Syrah-dominated blend raised all in barrel. It got more than one expletive in my notes and offers heavenly notes of black raspberries, garrigue, olives, lavender, and truffles. This full-bodied beauty has terrific mid-palate depth, sweet, polished tannin, and despite being a rich, powerful wine, has remarkable elegance and purity. I’ve called this estate one of the best in France, and I stand by that statement today. It’s going to benefit from short-term cellaring and have two decades of overall longevity. Hats off to the team at La Peira. 97-99/100 Jeb Dunnuck
“This will be another brilliant vintage for the cuvee” 95–97/100 Wine Advocate
This will be another brilliant vintage for the cuvee, and the 2016 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira is a more Syrah-dominated cuvee: 70% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre. The change in the blend was due to the difficulty in Grenache in 2016 for the region, and the Las Flors blend is shifted to include less Grenache as well. This 2016 has terrific notes of cassis, pepper and ample meatiness, full-bodied richness, sweet, sweet tannin and a beautiful elegance and purity that makes it a gorgeous drink even today. More open and supple than the 2015, it should drink nicely on release, yet evolve gracefully on its balance and purity. 95-97/100 Wine Advocates
Las Flors de la Pèira 2016
“I was able to taste the individual components of the 2016 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira, and this more Grenache-dominated cuvee always impresses for its upfront, sexy fruit and texture. The 2016 offers lots of both red and black fruits, spice and pepper, with medium to full-bodied richness, impressively sweet tannin and a finesse-oriented style.” 93–96/100 Wine Advocate
The more Grenache-heavy 2016 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flor de Peira offers a more red-fruited, floral character as well as complex notes of garrigue, Asian spices, and dried earth. It too is full-bodied and remarkably elegant, with a seamless, pure style that just begs to be drunk. This cuvée is always more forward and approachable than the La Peira release yet still ages remarkably well. 94-96/100 Jeb Dunnuck
Obriers de la Pèira 2017
Unreviewed as yet
Jancis Robinson on the Obriers cuvee
“Then there is also what might be regarded as a third wine, Les Obriers de la Pèira, that retails at around £17 a bottle (see my tasting notes on a wide array of vintages with an average score of around 16 or 16.5)”
Wine Advocate on the Obriers Cuvee
All previous vintages of the Obriers since 2005 have been rated 90/100 or over on release by the Wine Advocate.
Winemaker Audrey Bonnet-Koenig presents the La Pèira 2016, Las Flors 2016, and Obriers
La Peira Blanc 2017 and Deusyls de la Peira 2017
La Pèira Blanc 2017 and Deusyls de la Pèira 2017
This year we made our first ever En Primeur release of the La Pèira blanc and the second white Deusyls de la La Pèira!
Critics on the La Pèira Whites
• “This is one of the best white wines I have tasted from the Midi.” Simon Field MW Berry Bros. & Rudd
• “Like a lovely Northern Rhône white. Really exciting and good.” Jancis Robinson
“The rare white from La Pèira is surprising even its creators with its excellence and stamina, and new plantings have recently gone in of Roussanne as well as some Marsanne.” Wine Advocate
While the 2017 vintage has yet to be reviewed, past reviews of the La Pèira Blanc have been sensational:
· La Pèira Blanc 2013 “a sensational effort that competes in the top two to three whites of the Languedoc” 94/100 Wine Advocate
· La Pèira 2014 “this beauty is up with the top whites of the appellation.” 94/100 Wine Advocate
· La Pèira 2015 “citrus, white flowers and tangerine aromatics. It’s certainly an outstanding wine” 91-93/100 Wine Advocate
· La Pèira 2016 “it’s probably the white wine of the vintage.” 93 – 95/100 Wine Advocate
· 2016 Deusyls de la Pèira 90 – 92 Wine Advocate “Like everything here, it’s impeccably made.”
· 2015 Deusyls de la Pèira (89 – 91) Wine Advocate “Medium-bodied, elegant and balanced”
· 2014 Deusyls de la Pèira 92 Wine Advocate “medium-bodied, fresh and lively, with superb purity of fruit”
· 2013 Deusyls de la Pèira 92 Wine Advocate “Layered, downright classy, medium to full-bodied”
· 2012 Deusyls de la Pèira 94 Wine Advocate “it’s a smoking white”
· 2011 Deusyls de la Pèira 94 Wine Advocate “Vibrant, energetic and with a great finish”
· 2010 Deusyls de la Pèira 92 Wine Advocate “Elegant, seamless and full-flavored on the palate, with plenty of class”
· 2009 Deusyls de la Pèira (90 – 91) Wine Advocate “outstanding effort”
· 2008 Deusyls de la Pèira 91 Wine Advocate “offers mouthwatering salinity, lingering perfume, and intriguing, elusive mineral traces”
· 2006 Deusyls de la Pèira 92 Wine Advocate “demonstrates the striking potential of this site and talented team extends to white wine”
Background
Since first bottling of first white at La Pèira in 2005, weʼve learned more about the background of the white varieties at La Peira, as this interview with Jancis Robinson for her article La Pèira vertical and other Languedoc treasures relates:
“ ‘Oddly for this region, La Pèira’s Bois de Pauliau vineyard has been designated AOC for over half a century, as the most northerly of the two zones of the Clairette du Languedoc AOC (1948). Near La Pèira, and still in the Clairette AOC, France’s earliest known winery (10 AD) was discovered in 2007. Indeed, the first mention of French wine in literature as being of significant merit is found in Pliny’s Natural History (77-79 AD) in which the white wines of Baeterrae [Béziers] nearby are cited as worthy of note (alongside the resinous reds of Vienne). (Béziers is situated on a vast plain of quaternary alluvium that follows two seams northward along the Orb river toward St-Chinian and along the Hérault river toward the Terrasses du Larzac). ”
Inspired by this history of white wine production, we planted Clairette, alongside Marsanne, Roussanne in 2009, and further Roussanne and Grenache blanc in 2013.
The La Pèira blanc (first released in 2013) is a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier. Roussanne, of course, along with Marsanne, comprise the great Hermitage whites, with the Viognier grape comprising the wines of Condrieu.
The first of these implantations coming on board alongside the vineyard work and work with the Deusyls de la Pèira over 10 years lead to the development and first bottling of the La Pèira blanc in 2013 (albeit in limited availability).
The planting for the whites : Belle Feuille Roussanne planted 0,2573 ha Marsanne planted 0,0847 ha Roussanne 0,1720 ha Viognier 0,3000 ha Les Pointes Clairette 0,2860 ha Grenache blanc 0,2850 ha
The offer can be accessed here: https://store.la-peira.com/
A wonderful map showing the parcels, lieux-dits, and cepages of La Pèira can be viewed: http://www.la-peira.com/la-peira-map/
To purchase the map click here: https://store.la-peira.com/product/vignoble-de-la-peira/
Audrey Bonnet presents the La Pèira Blanc and second white Deusyls de la Pèira
Audrey Bonnet-Koenig presents the Matissat 2016 (Terrasses du Larzac)
Audrey Bonnet-Koenig (winemaker at La Pèira) presents the Matissat 2016 -La Pèira’s 100% Mourvèdre cuvée The most surprising point for many will be the number of bottles produced: a mere 1,300. Even with the La Pèira wine 5000 bottles (or 400 or so cases) represent the record of each vintage. As such, retaining library bottles for future tastings is a challenge – but, of course, necessary.
Presentation translation: “Matissat 2016 has a lovely red, almost black colour. On the nose, we can find beautiful notes of spices alongside ripe small black fruits. There is a hint of chocolate. On the palate, it is well-balanced, with good structure. We find the same black fruits, alongside spices. The finish has good length. However, it needs at least another five years of ageing. In terms of wine-making, as for all the other wines,the grape varieties are vinified separately. Then the wine is aged, half in new barrels and half in barrels that have been used once before the previous year. And for Matissat 2016, only 10 hectoliters [1,300 bottles] were produced.”
Our pre-release offer ends soon: https://store.la-peira.com/product/en-primeur-matissat-2016/
“There has been more ballyhoo about this domaine than any other since Daumas Gassac” Paul Strang on La Peira in – Languedoc Roussillon The Wines and the Wine Makers
“There has been more ballyhoo about this domaine than any other since Daumas Gassac” writes Paul Strang on La Pèira in his Languadoc Roussillon The Wines and the Wine Makers.
La Peira is rated **** world class (the highest rating).
The book – the most up-to-date and comprehensive reference book on this the world’s largest wine region and a great place to visit (“white beaches, blue seas, country markets, maquis-covered hills” Lonely Planet’s top regions to visit in 2018″) – is available at:
Amazon.co.uk | Amazon.com | Amazon.fr | Bookshops
“Paul Strang has been a main driver of the renaissance of South West France. This new edition confirms the coming-of-age of Languedoc Roussillon as France’s new fine wine region, a word of reference and a beautiful volume that wouldn’t have been possible five years ago, or with the combination of Paul’s research and Jason’s painterly eye. It’s already led me to brilliant wines I’ve never met before.” HUGH JOHNSON, OBE
Matissat 2016
We offered recently our first ever En Primeur release of Matissat – our pure Mourvèdre cuvee.
There were 1300 bottles (or around 222 wooden cases of 6 bottles) made in 2016. It’s a wine we only make in great years for this variety as it need perfect weather to ripen. Late-ripening Mourvèdre (found in Bandol – by the sea near Cassis – and sometimes Chateauneuf-du-Pape) is an interesting cepage.
“It reminds me of midnight: dark, quiet, impenetrable, enigmatic….but, at its best, full of strange magic”, writes Andrew Jefford of Mourvèdre. That same Andrew Jefford, writing on La Pèira’s Matissat:
“I’m not sure I’ve ever tasted better Mourvèdre; certainly not since I was last in Bandol”
Our pre-release offer (closed now for the 2016 vintage) was found on the La Pèira Especiariá –Especiariá the occitan word for the French Épicerie – here: https://store.la-peira.com/product/en-primeur-matissat-2016/
Matissat 2016 Reviews
“A wine I can’t get enough of is the Mourvedre-dominated Matissat from this estate, and I’ve yet to not love every vintage I’ve tasted”
Matissat 2016 95–98/100 Wine Advocate
A wine I can’t get enough of is the Mourvedre-dominated Matissat from this estate, and I’ve yet to not love every vintage I’ve tasted. The 2016 Terrasses du Larzac Matissat boasts a deep purple color as well as sensational notes of ripe dark fruits, violets, chocolate and massive chalky minerality. It’s a big wine, but it stays balanced, fresh and structured, with plenty of sweet tannin lending length and cut on the finish. I’d try a bottle right on release, and then forget it for 5-7 years, as Mourvedre has a tendency to close down shortly after release. Wine Advocate 95–98/100
“It’s up with the greatest expressions of this variety in France”
Matissat 2016 95-97/100 Jeb Dunnck
The deepest colored of the three wines in this report, the 2016 Terrasses du Larzac Matissat is a Mourvèdre-dominated cuvée raised all in barrels. This smoking good barrel sample is absolutely loaded with notions of cured meats, black currants, crushed rocks, game, and graphite. Deep, full-bodied, and powerful, it has no hard edges, a seamless texture, and building tannin. It’s up with the greatest expressions of this variety in France. Jeb Dunnuck 95-97/100
On first releasing the Matissat cuvee in 2012, we wrote the following:
PREAMBLE
Never ones to wish to distract from the La Pèira wines, we nevertheless found ourselves in 2007, harvesting Mourvèdre of excellent quality, that when it came to blending, could not find its place alongside the Syrah and Grenache in the La Pèira blend and so was bottled alone. This practice has continued, and each year for the last six years we have harvested a small plot of Mourvèdre that makes up the entirety of this wine – Matissat. The wine is grown a few steps away from where it is Vinified – on the same plot as the Syrah and Grenache of La Pèira on the Bois de Pauliau.
The Bois de Pauliau is a bit of an anomaly in our region of the south of France. It has been an AOC since 1948, as the most northerly zone of the white Clairette – so for just over half a century. It received its second AOC for red wines, the Terrasses du Larzac designation (Bettane and Desseauve’s French appellation of the year in 2011) in 2014. Just nearby, still in the Clairette AOC again, France’s oldest winery (10AD) was discovered (link: Decanter July 2007), and Clairette itself has been produced at least since 77-79 AD when Pliny the Elder named the whites of Baeterrae (Beziers) along with the resinous reds of Vienne as the sole two wines of exception from what is now France.
Harvested in the October mists, a time of chilled mornings, cold nights, and vine leaves turning to autumnal ruby, blood red, and rust, there is something special both about this time of year and this grape variety to us. Late-ripening, tannic, and with its own earthy inimitable character, Mourvèdre also has an extraordinary ability to age and to unfold and show more with time. Andrew Jefford’s description of the cépage is interesting: “It reminds me of midnight: dark, quiet, impenetrable, enigmatic….but, at its best, full of strange magic.”
Given growing areas such as Bandol come to mind when thinking of Mourvèdre, or certain wines such as the Beaucastel’s well-known ‘Hommage’, it’s a surprise to learn that these noted examples are mostly blends. The Beaucastel is 60 percent, and top Bandol estates such as Tempier advising against bottling pure Mourvèdre. After repeated tastings – and having held off releasing the wine for a while (7 years), we started to feel we had the proof in our glass.
And that like a Nebbiolo grown in Barolo or Barbaresco, or a Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy: here was a pure Mourvèdre that was complete, complex, and valid on its own singular terms. It’s an exciting side exploration for us, and hope it is of interest. Here follow reviews from Jancis Robinson, the Wine Advocate, David Schildknecht, Jeb Dunnuck, and Andrew Jefford (Decanter).
“I’m not sure I’ve ever tasted better Mourvèdre; certainly not since I was last in Bandol” Andrew Jefford (2008)
“What Mourvèdre it is! Harvested only in late October, that component of this wine displayed the variety’s archetypal chocolate, bay laurel, and raw meat.” Wine Advocate David Schildknecht (2009)
“Their increasingly celebrated Matissat” : Jancis Robinson: La Pèira’s varietal Mourvèdre (link)
“It’s up with the greatest expressions of this variety in France” Jeb Dunnuck
For en Primeur offers such as this in the future visit: https://store.la-peira.com
“Harvested in the October mists, a time of chilled mornings, cold nights, and vine leaves turning to autumnal ruby, blood red, and rust, there is something special both about this time of year and this grape variety to us.” – La Pèira Preamble to the first release in 2012
La Peira 2016 En Primeur Offer Ending Soon
La Pèira 2016 En Primeur Offer Countdown Ending soon
The final countdown to the end of the La Pèira En Primeur Offer 2017 is underway.
The reviews of the of the red are below (excluding the Obriers 2017).
The offer can be accessed here: https://store.la-peira.com/
2016 La Pèira 95-97/100
Wine Advocate Jeb Dunnuck
This will be another brilliant vintage for the cuvee, and the 2016 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira is a more Syrah-dominated cuvee: 70% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre. The change in the blend was due to the difficulty in Grenache in 2016 for the region, and the Las Flors blend is shifted to include less Grenache as well. This 2016 has terrific notes of cassis, pepper and ample meatiness, full-bodied richness, sweet, sweet tannin and a beautiful elegance and purity that makes it a gorgeous drink even today. More open and supple than the 2015, it should drink nicely on release, yet evolve gracefully on its balance and purity Issue Date 28th Apr 2017 Source 230, The Wine Advocate
2016 Las Flors de la Pèira 93-96/100
Wine Advocate Jeb Dunnuck
I was able to taste the individual components of the 2016 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira, and this more Grenache-dominated cuvee always impresses for its upfront, sexy fruit and texture. The 2016 offers lots of both red and black fruits, spice and pepper, with medium to full-bodied richness, impressively sweet tannin and a finesse-oriented style. Issue Date 28th Apr 2017 Source 230, The Wine Advocate
2017 Obriers de la Pèira
(Reviews to come)
Again the offer is here: https://store.la-peira.com/
La Peira 2005-2016 Wine Advocate Vertical Notes with Jeb Dunnuck
La Pèira vintages 2006-2011 pictured
The Long Work of Many Hands
Posted here are the Wine Advocates notes (from Jeb Dunnuck) as part of a La Pèira vertical tasting of the grand vin and second wine (Las Flors) spanning from 2005 to 2016.
It’s a decade’s worth of work. “Fruit of the vine and work of human hands”, the passage runs, and what follows here is the long work of many hands over a decade’s worth of days and nights, fiery middays, and chilly dawn starts. Forty seasons, and for the most part, each day a day of work done well.
The Recent 2015 and 2016 La Pèira Vintages
The notes included the great first reviews of the 2015 and 2016 vintages.
The main headline points are:
• 2015 La Pèira and 2015 Las Flors de la Pèira for the first time rated equally (94 – 96+)
The 2015 and 2016 vintages, notably winemaker Audrey Bonnet–Koenig’s first at La Pèira, has seen the Las Flors, La Pèira’s second wine, rated on a par with the grand vin. For the first time both the 2015 La Pèira and 2015 Las Flors de la Pèira were equally rated: (94 – 96)+.
The 2015 La Pèira is: “a bigger, richer, more concentrated wine than the Las Flors, and offers serious notes of graphite, wood smoke, currants and crushed rocks. Tannic, backward and structured”.
The 2015 Las Flors de la Pèira is: “full-bodied, voluptuous and decadent, yet always pure and impeccably balanced, it’s going to be just about impossible to resist on release.”
• 2016 La Pèira and 2016 Las Flors de la Pèira: “This will be another brilliant vintage for the cuvee”
The 2016 La Pèira is rated (95 – 97) with the words: “This will be another brilliant vintage for the cuvee”.
And the Las Flors de la Pèira 2016 (rated (93-96) with the note: “The 2016 offers lots of both red and black fruits, spice and pepper, with medium to full-bodied richness, impressively sweet tannin and a finesse-oriented style”.
We’ll post notes on the Matissat (Mouvedre) and the La Pèira white in another post, along with more on the 2015 and 2016 vintages at La Pèira (including great reviews for the third wine, the red Obriers de la Pèira).
But here follow notes on the Grand Vin and the second wine.
La Pèira 2005-2016
2005 La Pèira
97 RP
The first vintage for the estate, and one of the great vintages for the cuvée, the 2005 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira is a big, rich, serious effort that’s still uber concentrated and structured, yet perfectly balanced and elegant, with no heaviness or weight on the palate. Loaded with notions of black currants, licorice, graphite, smoked meats and minerality, this beauty put an exclamation point on the term “Blockbuster!” Still lively and fresh, it’s a joy to drink today, but will cruise for another decade.
Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 225, The Wine Advocate Drink Date 2016 – 2026
2006 La Pèira
95 RP
The 2006 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira comes from a cooler vintage where the team used additional saignée to boost the concentration level. Deep, rich and concentrated, it’s starting to show some maturity in its darker, chocolaty fruits, currants, licorice, and graphite aromas and flavors. Rich, full-bodied and beautifully balanced, it’s drinking right in its maturity window but has plenty of life. I would drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years, but it will certainly keep longer.
Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate Drink Date 2016 – 2021
2007 La Pèira
98 RP
A true blockbuster is the 2007 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira, which is one of the more Syrah-dominated releases with 68% Syrah and the rest a mix of Grenache and Mourvèdre. Utterly captivating in its sexy, exuberant, overflowing array of black raspberries, cassis, toasted spice, lavender and incense, this beauty has full-bodied richness and no hard edges, with sweet, sweet tannin and a finish that just won’t quit. It’s up there with the handful of greatest wines I’ve tasted from the south of France, and should continue to knock your socks off over the coming 8-10 years. Drink Date 2016 – 2026 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2008 La Pèira
95 RP
A hidden little gem, the 2008 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira offers a savory, complex, full-bodied, elegant style that shines in the vintage, and in fact, it might be one of the best wines from the south of France in the vintage. Giving up a terrific perfume of peppery herbs (there’s that classic Languedoc resinous scrub brush character), black fruits, truffle and crushed rock, it has beautiful mid-palate concentration, sound underlying structure and an impeccably balanced, age-worthy, lengthy feel. It shows incredible freshness and purity today, but will keep easily through 2026. It’s certainly not one of the most exuberant vintages here, yet it shows incredible class.
Drink Date 2016 – 2026 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2009 La Pèira
99 RP
I continue to absolutely love the 2009 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira, and where the 2010 shows a cool, Bordeaux-like elegance and austerity, the 2009 is pure southern France in its exuberant, sexy, voluptuous and hedonistic personality. Black raspberries, spice-box, licorice and cured meats all emerge from this full-bodied, sexy, beast of a wine. It’s worth noting that this is the first vintage were they made the final blend right after the vinification and before going into barrel. There’s no harm cracking this beauty today, but it will certainly keep for another decade or more. Drink Date 2016 – 2026 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2010 La Pèira
97+ RP
One of the standouts is the 2010 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira, and it might be the best in the lineup at maturity. Made from a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache that was brought up all in barrel, this full-bodied beauty shows a deep, concentrated, structured and cooler style to go with tons of black fruits, minerality, iron and a beef blood-like quality that comes out with time in the glass. Still youthful and fresh, with a touch of austerity, it needs another 2-3 years of cellaring and will keep through 2030.
Drink Date 2019 – 2030 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2011 La Pèira
96 RP
More sexy in style than the 2012, the 2011 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira offers fabulous notes of black raspberry, currants, beef blood, graphite and chocolate that continue to change and develop in the glass. A big, full-bodied, textured Languedoc, it shows the sunny nature of the vintage, has solid mid-palate depth, plenty of fine tannin and a hedonistic, yet elegant slant that’s impossible to resist. It should cruise for another decade. Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine AdvocateDrink Date 2016 – 2026
2012 La Pèira
92 RP
Perfumed, spicy and complex, with lots of red and black fruits, toasted spices, Provencal garrigue and leather, the 2012 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira is medium to full-bodied, upfront, charming and already drinking beautifully. It should keep through 2022. Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine AdvocateDrink Date 2015 – 2022
2013 La Pèira
93 RP
Showing a more open, supple and elegant profile now than when I tasted it at the domaine, the 2013 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira is a medium to full-bodied, seamless, nicely concentrated wine that has fine, polished tannin, solid overall concentration and beautiful notes of black raspberries, violets, crushed rocks and roasted herbs. It’s already accessible with a decant, yet should be at its best from 2018-2026. Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate Drink Date 2018-2026
2014 La Pèira
(93 – 96)
One of the wines of the vintage will be the 2014 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira comes from a single parcel of vines just beside the estate and is a mix of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre that’s raised in 40% new barrels. Its inky color is followed by fabulous notes of blackberries, pepper, beef blood and violets. Big, rich, full-bodied and nicely balanced, with a great mid-palate and tons of chocolatey fruit on the finish, it’s less concentrated than the 2015 yet will evolve nicely on its balance. Issue Date 28th Apr 2016 Source 224, The Wine Advocate
2015 La Pèira
(94 – 96)+
A blend of 45% each of Grenache and Syrah, with the balance Mourvedre, the 2015 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira is brought up mostly in older oak, yet has a small percentage in new. It’s a bigger, richer, more concentrated wine than the Las Flors and offers serious notes of graphite, wood smoke, currants and crushed rocks. Tannic, backward and structured, don’t even think about touching bottles for at least 3-4 years. Issue Date 28th Apr 2017 Source 230, The Wine Advocate
2016 La Pèira
(95 – 97)
This will be another brilliant vintage for the cuvee, and the 2016 Terrasses du Larzac la Peira is a more Syrah-dominated cuvee: 70% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre. The change in the blend was due to the difficulty in Grenache in 2016 for the region, and the Las Flors blend is shifted to include less Grenache as well. This 2016 has terrific notes of cassis, pepper and ample meatiness, full-bodied richness, sweet, sweet tannin and a beautiful elegance and purity that makes it a gorgeous drink even today. More open and supple than the 2015, it should drink nicely on release, yet evolve gracefully on its balance and purity Issue Date 28th Apr 2017 Source 230, The Wine Advocate
Las Flors de la Pèira 2005-2016
2005 Las Flors de la Pèira
94 RP
A fabulous wine that sports a still youthful ruby color, the 2005 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira offers a complex, meaty, masculine profile that continues to show more and more fruit with time in the glass. Ripe black cherries, black olives, roasted herbs, scorched earth and lots of cured meat characteristics all give way to full-bodied, rich, concentrated, yet still elegant and textured Terrasses du Larzac. This should continue to drink beautifully for at least another 4-5 years (and probably longer, yet there’s no need to wait).
Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 225, The Wine Advocate Drink Date 2008 – 2020
2006 Las Flors de la Pèira
96 RP
Compared to the 2005, the 2006 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira is more elegant and feminine, with its deep ruby (and still vibrant) color giving way to beautiful notes of ripe black cherries, Provencal garrigue, sweet spice and hints of dark chocolate. Full-bodied, pure, silky and elegant, with sweet, integrated tannin, it too is drinking beautifully and will keep for another 4-5 years. I actually prefer this over the top cuvee.
Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate Drink Date 2009 – 2020
2007 Las Flors de la Pèira
97 RP
Wow, hello beautiful! The sensational 2007 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira (40% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre) tastes like a top flight Chateauneuf du Pape with its ripe black raspberry, black cherry, licorice, baking spice and roasted herb-laced bouquet. Possessing full-bodied richness, a stacked mid-palate and a luxurious texture that carries sweet tannin, no hard edges and a great finish, this beauty is firing on all cylinders today, but will continue drinking beautifully through 2025. Drink Date 2010 – 2025 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2008 Las Flors de la Pèira
91 RP
More Grenache-dominated, with smaller parts Syrah and Mourvedre, the 2008 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira is inky colored and has tons of black currant, dark chocolate, resinous herbs, and scorched earth aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, focused and nicely concentrated, it has solid concentration, yet lacks the overall charm and texture found in the prior vintages. Nevertheless, it’s certainly a beautiful wine that will keep for another 5-7 years.
Drink Date 2011 – 2023 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2009 Las Flors de la Pèira
96 RP
Another tour de force is the 2009 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira, which is 33% each Syrah and Grenache, with the rest primarily Mourvedre. Similar in style to the sexy and voluptuous 2007, yet possibly with a touch more purity (but maybe less overall density), it offers a sensational bouquet of sweet black currants, caramelized meats, licorice, black raspberries and chocolate, with an additional floral, sappy character emerging with time in the glass. Full-bodied, concentrated, yet sexy, lively and still fresh, it has terrific purity of fruit, nicely integrated acidity and a great finish. Drink this fab Terrasses du Larzac anytime over the coming decade (although it’s brilliant today).
Drink Date 2012 – 2026 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2010 Las Flors de la Pèira
93 RP
The 2010 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira (55% Grenache, 30% Syrah and the rest Mourvèdre) is deep ruby/ purple-colored and offers lots of black cherries and assorted darker fruits to go with lots of funky herbs, damp river rock, bay leaf, and cured meat-like aromas and flavors. Beautifully concentrated, elegant and silky, with fine tannin, good acidity and plenty of length, it should hit prime time in another handful of years and drink nicely through 2026.
Drink Date 2016 – 2026 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2011 Las Flors de la Pèira
92 RP
A charming, forward, silky effort, the 2011 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira offers tons of kirsch, toasted spice, garrigue and licorice notes in a medium to full-bodied, silky, beautifully elegant, seamless style. It’s drinking nicely today, and there’s no need to delay gratification. Drink Date 2014 – 2021 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2012 Las Flors de la Pèira
89 RP
Similar in style to the 2011, the medium-ruby colored 2012 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira offers lightweight notes of kirsch, garrigue, underbrush, and hints of meatiness in a surprisingly forward, moderately concentrated, straightforward style. While it’s certainly a solid wine, it’s a far cry from the more concentrated, textured and layered earlier vintages. Drink Date 2015-2022 Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2013 Las Flors de la Pèira
91 RP
A pretty, elegant version of this cuvee, which is the hallmark of the vintage, the 2013 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira offers a darker slant to its fruit profile and has lots of blackberry, cracked pepper, violets, saddle leather and distinct minerality. This medium-bodied, pure, polished beauty has already integrated tannin, notable purity of fruit and a great finish. It’s a beautiful effort in a difficult vintage. Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate Drink Date 2015 – 2023
2014 Las Flors de la Pèira
(89 – 92) RP
Similar in style to a slightly more concentrated 2012, the beautiful 2014 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira offers lots of sweet black cherries, Provencal garrigue, saddle leather and crushed flower-like characteristics in a medium-bodied, supple, polished and elegant style. Drink this total charmer on release and over the following 7-8 years. Issue Date 30th Jun 2016 Source 225, The Wine Advocate
2015 Las Flors de la Pèira
(94 – 96)+
Not yet bottled, the 2015 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira has put on considerable weight and richness since I tasted it last year. Checking in as a blend of 45% Syrah, 35% Grenache and the rest Mourvedre, aged primarily in older barrels, it boasts terrific notes of black raspberries, cassis, graphite and pepper. Full-bodied, voluptuous and decadent, yet always pure and impeccably balanced, it’s going to be just about impossible to resist on release. Issue Date 28th Apr 2017 Source 230, The Wine Advocate
2016 Las Flors de la Pèira
(93-96)
I was able to taste the individual components of the 2016 Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de la Peira, and this more Grenache-dominated cuvee always impresses for its upfront, sexy fruit and texture. The 2016 offers lots of both red and black fruits, spice and pepper, with medium to full-bodied richness, impressively sweet tannin and a finesse-oriented style. Issue Date 28th Apr 2017 Source 230, The Wine Advocate